Revised jumper dress draft

I dared myself to blog all of my remaining 2016 projects before the new year in my last post. I successfully enlisted my sis to help me in this madness by taking pictures of everything last week. So… it’s happening!

Diving right in with what’s been one of the most fun and challenging on-going projects from 2016 – my self-drafted jumper dress. I drafted a torso foundation and designed the original jumper dress shortly after. Since it seems to be the perfect complement to every top I own, I’ve worn it a ton and have had ample opportunity to figure out updates I want to make.

crabandbee.com | self-drafted jumper dress
The original

I revisited the draft a couple of weeks ago, and made two versions in rapid succession.

First, I made one from beautiful stretch denim gifted to me from Heather and Jennifer. I managed to use every last scrap of it after making some denim trousers.

crabandbee.com | self-drafted jumper dress

From V1 to V2, these were the changes I made:

  • Widened the bib
  • Raised the neckline
  • Raised the side seams
  • Changed the silhouette to an a-line
  • Lengthened the hem
  • Eliminated the closures (for simplicity’s sake)

crabandbee.com | self-drafted jumper dress

I also added a waist seam and split the front skirt into two, but those were cosmetic updates. If I had had more denim, I would have added some kind of pocket but I used every last scrap.

crabandbee.com | self-drafted jumper dress
Accompanied by my familiar

I made V3 in some magical silk-rayon blend I found in a pile of remnants at a local fabric store. It’s well-behaved and sturdy, although probably the lightest weight I’d want to make one of these in.

crabandbee.com | self-drafted jumper dress

V3 changes were:

  • Widening the straps to 2″
  • Adding slash pockets in the front
  • Adding a back waist seam, just so I could line the entire bodice easily

I’ve been wearing these dresses non-stop over leggings since I made them.

crabandbee.com | self-drafted jumper dress

Both dresses tend to hang off my back and billow before they reach the hips. Since most of my curves are in the back, I’m not sure how to address that or if it’s just part and parcel of this silhouette on my figure. Please do share if you have any thoughts!

I had a moment of Christmas generosity when we were shooting photos, and gave the denim one to my sister since she was admiring it. We share what I call the Family Torso – broad shoulders, long chest, narrow back and ribcage – so anything I draft off my slopers will likely suit her perfectly. This pattern sews up quickly, so I can make another while she enjoys this one.

Expect to see both of these fabrics again as I continue my parade of 2016 sewing!

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34 thoughts on “Revised jumper dress draft

  1. These are lovely! I’ve been meaning to draft up a pinafore dress for absolutely ages, I especially like the last one. Regarding the fit, I think you need to address your draft and add in some darts. If you’re intent on avoiding darts, draw them in first, then afterwards you could try swinging out the fullness to the waist seam.

    1. Thank you, Anushka! I did draft this off a torso foundation with darts and left them open. I was hoping to avoid them but maybe they are necessary. I have considered turning this into less of an a-line dress… hrm… something to play with!

  2. They’re great and I think the fit is perfect for the style. I love the strap design. Wish I could have some of that navy silk/rayon, such a find! And the look on your familiar’s face (mr puffy?) is hilarious. Such a stink eye.

    1. It is Mr. Puffy giving us that amazing stink eye – amazing, because he’s such a sweetheart. I saw that they had another lump of it on the remnant table and was so tempted… but I’m making my third garment from it as we speak and was wondering how many more I should have?

  3. I’ve seen a few jumper dresses around the Internet lately and personally like the silhouette as is. I think these styles of clothes are based on work wear and should be easy to move around in. I would love one myself, but am still debating whether I can get away with it at my ‘advanced age’. Having teenage daughters makes me question what I should wear!

    1. Oh, I say go for it!! I think the silhouette is pretty neutral and seems to fit so nicely with your style. You can play up your youthful nature with the dungaree clasps and top-stitched chest pockets or keep it more understated without them. I’m pretty partial to this design, obviously, so I might be the wrong person to ask!

  4. These are excellent – and I agree with Phillipa that the work wear shape is nicely echoed in your jumper dresses. But since you love them so much, I’m sure you’ll play around with them some more!

  5. Love this style and you carry it off so well, I would be tempted but I think my chest would be an issue as loose styles hang off them and make me look pregnant although the waist seam could be brought in?? Something for me to think about over Christmas. Love all three versions.

      1. They all look great and would definitely work better with my figure, I think I’m going to give it a try, especially the red one, thank you.

  6. love these….they are so versitile and also very inspiring! all of them are gorgeous and love how they all look so different in their own way

  7. Cute! I especially like the last one with the pockets. As far as the fit, if you did want it to be a little less full in back maybe add a vertical dart at center back above the waist seam, and then release the fullness again in the skirt with another dart or gathers?

  8. What a great design! I really love this silhouette on you. Really interesting to see all the tweaks you made to each version to perfect the fit. It’s so nice to have a go to pattern/uniform for everyday wear!

    1. He’s quite the stunner. When we adopted him, the shelter manager was quite regretful as she’d had her photographer spend a lot of time photographing him for their adoptions site. His name is Puffy – we couldn’t bear to change it!

  9. I love these … all of them first of al because I love the silhouette and the idea of a pinafore dress and second i love your fabric choices. I don’t see the billowing you speak of .. I personally think the fit is spot on.

  10. These are great. Simplified design goes a long way 🙂 As for the billowing problem, I’d assume that’s just the shape of this kind of dress?… Don’t know. Anyway, they look really good and incredibly versatile.

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