Canada Pants

crabandbee.com | Closet Case Patterns Morgan jeans

I’m excited to share my Morgan jeans today! Since it would be weird to call your own jeans by your first name, I call them my Canada Pants. Not only were they are designed by Canadian Heather Lou, but I also found the fabric for them on a trip to Victoria, BC.

When Heather first approached me about this pattern, I was trepidatious about fitting without the aid of stretch. (I made a pair of non-stretch flares last year and while they’re comfortable enough, I just don’t like how they look.) I decided my strategy would be sizing up and sewing in a fabric with drape like a linen. Doesn’t it sound pleasant to billow around in roomy linen jeans?

But fate had other plans and I fell under the spell of a thick 50/50 hemp cotton denim in Victoria’s Gala Fabrics. (Incidentally, when I went up to the cutting counter, the owner immediately asked me if I was from Salt Springs Island. I said no and asked why, and he said that hemp and linen are very popular with the inhabitants there. If we were going on fibers alone, I’d say I’d found my people…)

crabandbee.com | Closet Case Patterns Morgan jeans

So with my drapey linen plans delayed (but not abandoned!), I made a very traditional pair of blue jeans. And, in spite of my hesitance, they’re easily the best jeans, nay, pants in my wardrobe. For a few years now, the only jeans pattern I’d used was what I’d adapted from a Burda pleated pants pattern. I’m still proud of what I accomplished with that pattern, but these are better. The pocket design and placement is better. The balance between front and back is better. The booty curve is better. The overall fit is better.

crabandbee.com | Closet Case Patterns Morgan jeans

Let’s talk fit for a bit. I took the pattern’s suggestion to size up for thick fabric (I made a 10 waist / 12 hips instead of an 8 waist /10 hips) and made a muslin. Lo and behold, my muslin was already looking and feeling better than any other pair of pants I owned. I had a bit of excess fabric in the front thighs and under ye olde rump, as well as some smile lines in the back. After some research, I made the following fit tweaks:

  • scooped and lowered the rear curve (which removed the extra back volume)
  • scooped the front curve into more of a rectangle (which also removed volume)
  • removed excess from the back side seam starting under the widest part of my hips
  • removed excess from the back inner thighs
  • removed excess from the front inner thighs
  • moved the knee point up by 1″
  • took out 1/4″ total from the calves starting at the knee

I’m a tall person with short-person legs, so the ankle length was perfect on me.

Aside from my plan to make the jeans in linen, my other design idea was to expose the buttons on the button fly. I’m way into series of gold buttons right now. I omitted the fly shield and sewed my buttonholes directly into the jeans front.

crabandbee.com | Closet Case Patterns Morgan jeans

I also really wanted keyhole buttons. I remembered Kelly from Cut Cut Sew had hand-sewed hers and how lovely it looked. One evening when my husband was out, I turned on some music and got to stitching.

crabandbee.com | Closet Case Patterns Morgan jeans

Hand-sewn buttonholes are still not my forte, but these are infinitely more practical and beautiful than my machined ones! Consider me a convert.

crabandbee.com | Closet Case Patterns Morgan jeans

I also changed the pocket construction in favor of pocket-stays, instructions for which are included in the Ginger sew-along.

crabandbee.com | Closet Case Patterns Morgan jeans

Given how well these fit, I’m chomping at the bit to make a second pair. My love of jeans sewing has been re-ignited! I’m going to see how these wear before sewing another pair – the true test of any pair of jeans -and see if I need to adjust the fit or sizing.

Thank you for reading, and thank you, Heather, for both the compliment of a namesake pattern and for drafting that booty curve.

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60 thoughts on “Canada Pants

  1. Yep, these are awesome! I have not been bitten by the jeans bug…until now. I have cut the pattern and changed some of the design details (bigger pockets, straighter back yoke and room for my big calves) and now need to toile. Can’t wait. Your denim is such a beautiful colour. Half the battle! I am an average height with very short person legs so the cropped length works for me full length. Legs are so weird, no wonder none of us can buy jeans to fit!

  2. Morgan these look amazing!!! You totally nailed the fit and I love the fabric! Those buttonholes and gold buttons look perfect! I love your namesake jeans!!

  3. These look great! Nice button feature. All your fitting work over the past few years has paid off, becaue you have fit these beautifully.

    1. That’s a good point, all that fitting work on the other jeans was time well-spent! I got a little bit frustrated with that pattern over the past few months, but it was such an important step for me. Thanks, Katherine!

  4. They look so good on you!! I especially love the back view 😉 There is an online shop here that sells hemp denim and I have always wondered about it. Sounds like great stuff. And I would really love to know how you removed the excess – by slashing and overlapping?

    1. Thank you Ute! I took the lazy person’s route and took it out of the side seams (at the seam lines, not the seam allowances). I was expecting to have to make some changes to the length because of that, but the differences weren’t noticeable. I think I took 3/8″ of width out of the back mid-thigh outseam and maybe 1/4″ total from the front/back mid-thigh outseam.

  5. You are looking so cool in those jeans! I am even more motivated to make this pattern than I was before. The exposed button fly is such a great detail.

  6. These are spectacular! I love how you’ve made them your own by exposing the button fly, too. And the fit is superb! I’m always inspired by your commitment to getting a good fit. Love those hand worked buttonholes. Also – shoes. Those shoes are totally dreamy.

    1. Hand-worked buttonholes are so luxurious! I actually looked around for a nice contrast thread like I’d seen on your jeans but didn’t have one that worked. And honestly, the muslin fit pre-adjustments was already 90% there!

      I searched far and wide for these shoes – thanks for noticing them!

  7. Thanks to Heather, I’ve found another blog I enjoy reading….yours! Your Canada aka Morgan Jeans are superb and I like the exposed button fly ❤
    My pattern is awaiting the puzzle phase and will be complete this AM! I'd love to see your linen version one day!!!

    1. Thanks for stopping by, Genevieve, and good luck with your jeans! The linen version will depend completely on finding the right fabric so I’m keeping my eyes open for it!

  8. These jeans look fabulous! I love that they’re a hemp mix too. What I love most though is that button fly! I’m planning on a pair like this once summer is over here.

    1. Thanks, Rebecca! I’d like to sew more hemp. l think I remember you mentioning blogging for Organic Cotton Plus; have you ever used any of their bottom-weight hemps?

  9. De-lurking to finally say hi 🙂 Your jeans look fantastic! I’m also very happy to see a pair of these not rolled up.

    This is my favorite jeans silhouette and I don’t really see it as exclusively super-informal, so all the rolled up pairs I’ve been seeing online were starting to get me worried that my jeans preferences are somehow at odds with the world. I have the pattern and am really looking forward to making these. If it works out for me, I’d likely look for ways to wear these everywhere.

    1. Thanks for stopping by! I agree, I don’t see this style as particularly informal – especially since the pattern isn’t baggy unless you size up. I think the rolled cuff just happens to be in style right now, but certainly not necessary!

  10. SO MANY HEARTS FOR EYESSSSS!!! I love these oh so very much and I am 100% doing the exposed button fly on my next (linen) pair. The fit is spectacular! Thank you for being the absolutely perfect muse! xoxoxo

  11. Great jeans! I might actually try that pattern! Small nitpick, though, from a Victorian…it’s SALT Spring Island. It’s a hippie-ish kind of place. (Pretty rich hippies, nowadays, some of them.)

  12. They look so good on you! Thank you for mentioning the booty curve. I always need more curve there and hearing it makes it less scary to try the pants. I love how yours turned out. They look so simple yet awesome. Congrats on being the namesake!

    1. Thanks, Anya-Zoe! I’ve heard that the Ginger jeans are also booty friendly, although I haven’t tried them. The nice thing about pants is that they don’t take much fabric – you could make muslin shorts to check the booty fit for a half-yard of 60″ fabric depending on your size! So, I think you should try pants if you are so inclined 🙂

      1. Your logic is hard to argue with! I will now have to try my hand at jeans 🙂

  13. Love the hand-sewn buttonholes and the button fly! They look so good on a boyfriend-cut. I’m 5’6″ but have the legs of someone much shorter; my current boyfriend jeans from Levi’s are cropped but fit me just fine as full length.

  14. Those look great! I met you a few weeks ago at Dry Goods, and we talked about getting together to knit. My number is ___-___-____. — Meg 🙂

    1. Hey Meg, it was nice meeting you at Drygoods! Hope you’re having a nice spring and I’ll get in touch about knitting! (PS I edited your comment to hide your phone # but I’ve got it.)

  15. I love them! I’m doing a little “Canada pants” chant and dance in my head (too awkward to do in real life). They look great! I’m enjoying how this pattern is making me consider different silhouettes. And those button holes… ❤

    1. That sounds adorable!

      Funnily enough, I was thinking of these as a much different silhouette than my other jeans.. turns out the real difference – aside from the fit stuff – is only a slimmed lower leg! I’m a one-trick pony.

  16. These look awesome!
    I am finding rtw jeans are pretty much always at odds with my body and seeing all of your jeans makes are so inspiring!

  17. These are gorgeous, Morgan, especially your buttonholes! (“Hey girl, nice buttonholes.” 😉 That’s my new pickup line.)

    Thanks so much for your fitting details. I often get wrinkles right under the booty too, and now I’m thinking I should try your adjustment.

  18. These look fab! I love the exposed buttonholes. I’ll try and muster up some patience to hand sew buttonholes for my next pair of jeans because my machine makes the lousiest buttonholes!

    1. There really is nothing more luxurious than a hand-worked buttonhole. It does take a bit of time, but maybe not even as much as having to unpick a crappy machine one (ask me how I know!)

  19. These look amazing on you! i love the cut, the fit, the fabric (especially it’s slubbiness) and all your mods – next pair I’m definitely putting on an exposed button fly!

  20. wow. these look sooooo good! I have jean envy. I have yet to make my Gingers…they are cut out but laying shamefully on my table.

  21. These look so good Morgan! I got such a kick seeing Heather had named her jeans after you, what a nice honour! I haven’t really been tempted to sew jeans before, seeing as I still haven’t even sewn a pair of trousers, but I just love the look of this pattern. There are so many great versions already!

    1. I started my jeans-sewing odyssey by making a pair of trousers in denim! It ended up being a nice way to get more familiar with the fabric and pants fit in general. That said, there are a lot more jeans-making resources out there these days and I think you could totally tackle it! I think the biggest thing is determining the best way to tackle top-stitching on your machine.

  22. I love your Canada jeans. I have always wanted to try my sewing skills and make a pair. The zipper area keeps me from trying. I bought 5 yards of nice denim but have not ever tried. Great job!

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