My favorite shirt

crabandbee.com | McCall's 6436 double-gauze shirt

After I finished my husband’s jacket, you’d better believe I dove straight into that pile of fabrics from Japan! First on the cutting table was a tantalizing water-color striped double-gauze bought with the incomparable Inna in the incomparable town of Kyoto.

crabandbee.com

Inna witnessed my shopping process. For me, it’s rarely as simple as “I like that, I have the money, I’ll buy it.” I’ll call into question my entire identity and value system (aspirational minimalism, thrift, investment of time required to properly own something, quality, wardrobe versatility, environmental values) before I make a purchase.

And guess what? It’s a tiring, and ultimately not all that effective method for making decisions; I’ll prevaricate for some sweaty minutes or hours until I throw out all of my requirements in favor of an impulse decision. Luckily, Inna was a patient shopping buddy.

Obviously I did buy the fabric in this case, and I haven’t regretted it because it’s been sewn into what is hands-down my favorite shirt!

crabandbee.com | McCall's 6436 double-gauze shirt

I had no such analysis paralysis choosing the pattern. It’s another McCall’s 6436, of course, with all of my standard fit adjustments (1/2″ square shoulder, size 14 with 12 bust) and as well as some design changes (1 – piece sleeve, topstitched french button plackets, shorter cuffs, no back darts). I also added a tower placket – my first ever, after a practice run – using another Vogue pattern to place the opening. I used the Off The Cuff placket construction method.

crabandbee.com | McCall's 6436 double-gauze shirt

And may I add that I’m excited to have my first long-sleeved buttoned shirt that fits through the shoulders…!

crabandbee.com | McCall's 6436 double-gauze shirt

In spring, I’ll be wearing this shirt tucked into skirts! This was the flared skirt muslin I drafted based on my skirt sloper. It started looking mighty wearable, so I finished it with a top-stitched waist-band facing.

crabandbee.com | McCall's 6436 double-gauze shirt

Back soon with the skirt I drafted and wore to my friend’s wedding!

 

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93 thoughts on “My favorite shirt

  1. Oh man, I do exactly the same dithering game when fabric shopping, unless i’m in a rare impulse-spendy mood. Beautiful shirt, a breath of spring!

    1. I think I’m going to make better decision-making a goal for 2016! I’ve ditched things I actually needed (which are rare) and bought stuff that has been totally dissatisfactory.

  2. I LOVE this! I made a quite wearable muslin of McCall’s 6426 recently as well and am excited for the seemingly endless customization options I’m sure it contains. Thanks for the inspiration; I love this!

    1. Nothing like a good basic shirt pattern! I didn’t mention it in the post (because I have a terrible track record of fulfilling any promises I make in writing!) but I have about ten variations swimming around in my mind.

  3. Isn’t double gauze the cosiest? Somehow perfect in summer and winter. I’m so glad it’s becoming more common here! Your shirt is so fresh and lovely, and fits so well! Way to go!

    1. I’ve been surprised that it’s kept a little bit of warmth in during the fall/winter! It’s so popular in Japan that I’m not surprised it suits warmer temps. Thanks, Gillian!

  4. Gorgeous shirt! That watercolor stripe is so good. I hear you on the shopping process… mine is very similar. Time consuming but it works. Rarely do I regret not buying something that I was considering but decided against.

    1. Ah, I need to take a page out of your book. I don’t mind leaving behind fabrics I could have loved as much as buying the ones that I was so-so on. Avoiding shopping is really the best approach for me, I think, although I’m glad I did some in Japan.

  5. This shirt is so good!!! I would not have thought to make a button up out of that fabric, but I absolutely love it. The fit looks amazing too–well done!

  6. It’s hands down my favourite shirt too. 🙂 I’ve just took a book out from the library on shirt-making and, but your shirt just gets me all that more excited to make one. Beautiful fabric by the way, I guess sometimes you just have to go with your gut feeling and pick up what really moves you then and there.

  7. Lovely shirt. I think it’s going to be a real classic in your wardrobe. I also take sooo long trying to decide whether I should buy anything other than essentials like food – especially fabric!

  8. I don’t comment that much on the blogs I read but this time I simply had to because this might just be the most beautiful shirt I have EVER seen. Be it handmade or RTW. Like EVER. *swoon*
    x Sarah

  9. Great shirt and beautiful fabric … May I ask: how many meters did you buy to make a button up shirt? As I have bought many 2 meters cut of Japanese fabric set aside for button up shirts and lately I’ve been wondering if it’s enough …

    1. Jess, I’m so sorry but I don’t recollect! I’m thinking maybe 3m and it’s probably under 44″ wide. I had slightly under a meter left, but I also mostly do single-layer cutting – which is a great way to come in under the recommended yardage.

      1. I probably have to some ninja cutting skills with my 2m cut lol …
        Thanks Morgan and have a superb weekend …

  10. Beautifully fitted and versatile pieces. I am inching towards reclaiming some sewing time and have bought a cup size shirt pattern (having roughly opposite fitting issues to you), and am looking forward to trying it out. In response to your earlier comment, I am doing well. I am very happy, working to retrain, which means sewing has taken a back seat for now. But it’s ok, my time will come! In the meantime, I’m enjoying my blog reading very much.

  11. Ooh it’s lovely! The shopping identity crises… I feel you. By the way, did you see any organic cotton fabrics when you were in Japan? My sister’s there on holiday right now and if there’s a nice eco-craft shop somewhere I’d love to try and get her to do some dilemmarising for me!

    1. I didn’t! I’ll admit I wasn’t looking, though… I did read on Gingermake’s blog that mills in Japan are better regulated than many other countries but then again I had no clue where the fabrics I was looking at were made due to the language barrier! Here’s Sonja’s post, anyway: http://gingermakes.com/2015/10/21/new-adventures/.

      Excellent tactic, by the way, getting your sis to make the decisions for you!

  12. Lovely! And it looks great on you. I had to laugh reading about your shopping process, it sounds a lot like mine. Except in the end I usually just decide it’s all too complicated and buy nothing. One of these days that will have to change, but for now I have a bunch of stash left from a previous mindset. I did buy fabric when we went to Italy though, being in another country and seeing what’s there just seems like too good an opportunity to miss. I really like the lighter pinkish printed fabric in the top photo too, I’ll be interested to see what it becomes!

    1. I mostly end up buying nothing, thankfully. I’ve panic-bought some real stinkers in the past, too, so buying nothing is definitely the better option! And I’ve come to loathe extended shopping trips. But like you in Italy, I did push myself a bit in Japan to find some fabric souvenirs. That print you like is a red on cream print, and I’m actually the least sure of what I’ll make from that one! It’s a little more cream than I thought in the store, which generally makes me look a bit ill; it might be best suited for home projects like quilts or curtains.

  13. It’s smashing! And stripe matching on that tower placket – ooh it gives me nerdy chills – I hope you’re feeling smug about that! It’s beautiful on you.

    1. I was fretting about it because the variation of the watercolor stripe added some complexity to it! There was definitely some nudging and adjusting, but I like how it looks now. Thanks, Sarah!

  14. Looks fabulous & timeless – the best kind of garment.
    I’ve got a similar stripe in silk/cotton which I’ve been deliberating over… I’m thinking a longer shirt maxi dress… but I’ll change my mind a dozen times!

  15. No wonder this is your favourite shirt ever, it’s absolutely gorgeous! The fit looks perfect on you and that fabric is just perfect. I can’t wait to see your skirt as your muslin is lovely. I wish my testers, or final versions for that matter, turned out as nice as your muslin!

  16. Wow, this is gorgeous! That fabric!! I’m so glad you pulled the trigger on this one. The shirt fits beautifully, and the watercolor stripes are stunning. Isn’t that Off the Cuff placket tutorial awesome? I use it for all my shirts. Congrats on the self-drafted skirt too. Hooray for sewing! 🙂

  17. Such an excellent shirt Morgan!! The watercolour stripes are amazing and your sleeve plackets look perfect! I would be wearing this all the time and what a great souvenir from Kyoto! I went there once in my pre-sewing days and it was beautiful.

    1. I’m itching to go back to Kyoto! I had to keep promising myself I could go back so I wouldn’t run myself completely ragged. Thank you, Heather 🙂 All your shirts from last year were really inspiring.

  18. Gah! So much love for this shirt! And that line matching on the tower placket. Rock star!! I’d wear this shirt to death I tell you, which in my books makes it a fantastic investment xx

  19. Ok, I actually just cut out this pattern tonight! In linen. And I did a 1/2″ square shoulder, back only (so forward shoulder, too) after reading your post again. I can already tell it’s going to be better than the simplicity pattern I tried before (better shaping, less boxy). Fingers crossed it fits me as well as this fits, too. I absolutely love this version you made. The fabric is fantastic. Well done!

    1. Yes, they’re another element of my spring wardrobe I’m excited to get back into! I would wear them constantly in warmer temps except I have a 3/4 mile walking commute to the bus! May need to figure out a way around that.

  20. I don’t think you were slow, when fabric shopping. I rarely do it with somebody, because I tend to spend too much time browsing between fabric rolls, daydreaming about future projects, running between the floors. Unlike you though, I buy half of the fabric I have a crush on, which explains my Gargantuesque stash.
    I tried to wear shirts in the past, but I can’t stand my look in them. This shirt of yours is a dream! Besides, you rock shirts, all of them look ! Everything: pattern, stripes and model work together perfectly 🙂

    1. Aw, thanks Inna. I think I picked this fabric up and put it back 3 different times… 🙂

      I used to feel the same way about shirts, but finding one that fit has helped me re-consider the style. I still can’t stand blazers, though, although I admire them on so many other stylish people!

  21. Hi, I’m a new reader of your blog. I love your new shirt, the fabric is fabulous! Also, I like a lot the shape of your skirt, I think the amount of flare is just perfect. Would you mind sharing how you adapted your basic sloper to get this shape? Thank you!

    1. Hi Olga, thanks for stopping by! It’s been awhile since I made the pattern, but I followed the instructions in my drafting manual (by Helen Joseph Armstrong) and can’t remember them too clearly! The basic concept is to slash a line from the center of the front dart and one of the back darts, then close the darts which swings the bottom hem out.

  22. I wish that I shopped like you do! Instead I’m like, “I want it ooooops I just bought it”! My new strategy is to simply not shop at all. 🙂

    I’m glad you bought this- it makes for a really striking shirt!

  23. Trust the Japanese to produce the most perfect of painterly striped fabrics. Love what you’ve done with this… the soft edges of those blue lines just slay me!

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