Hey gang! After including my python pants in my hits of 2013 (and realizing that I have one pair of pants that works for cold weather), I decided to take a third* stab at at the same pattern (Burda 7250).
*Secret pants confession: I sewed up a pair in the summer, in the magenta twill. They were somewhat disastrous. I’d left a note to myself to take out a WHOPPING 1.75″ out of the back rise. I threw caution to the wind, made a new short-in-the-rump pattern piece, cut out the fabric, and lo and behold, the back rise was exactly 1.75″ too short. I did a tiny seam allowance in the back, shortened the tops of the side seams, and changed the waistband, but they’re kind of wedgie pants. In fact, the rear seam blew out when I first wore them to work and all that was separating me from showing my scrunds was my serged seam allowance. I’ve reinforced the seam and it’s relaxed a enough to be wearable but I’ve never been able to get that excited to take pictures in them.
Now that’s out of the way.
I added the 1.75″ back into the pattern and drafted new slanted pockets. I wanted to try my adjustments out with a wearable muslin, so I used my bountiful olive drab linen (ironically resulting in summer-weight pants).
In addition to the slant pockets in the front, I tried out welt back pockets. I used Poppykettle’s excellent tutorial for most of it, but used one piece of fabric for the welt and pocket bag, per this video, since my fabric was thin enough.
For learning a new skill, it went remarkably well! Although (as you might have seen on Instagram) this happened:
I chalk this one up to sewing when I was coming down with the flu before Christmas. I was so excited to try them on and didn’t notice the sad/funny asymmetry until I turned around in the mirror! I had to remake the entire leg after I was able to get out of bed.
So the welts match now, although I think the pocket bags extend a little too far towards center back and create some awkward (is there any other kind?) excess crack fabric. They also gape a bit in spite of interfacing the opening, so I might sew them shut. For me, back pockets are all about breaking up an expanse of rump.
Another big improvement I made was re-adding 1/2″ of ease to the front pieces above the knee after reading Cation Designs’ post on pants construction. Wow. Now I don’t feel like I have to walk straight-legged up the stairs. I also removed the cuffs, added length and hand-sewed the hems.
They’re too drafty for the winter, but I can see myself wearing them like crazy for spring, summer and early fall! I love the slouchy style. I finished them a few days before New Year’s and immediately cut out another pair in this beautiful, second-hand dark stretch denim I found at SCRAP in Portland. (5+ yards for $11!) They are thick enough for winter, and I’ll be sharing them soon!