I was staring at my fabric recently and decided to use a textured black cotton double-gauze (from one of those ill-advised fabric purchases where I “stock up”, or buy fabrics I don’t yet have plans for!) to make a pleated skirt. I’d been curious to try a shortened version of the pattern I’d used to make a long version this summer.
I found the pleats and waistline to be flattering even on my more rectangular figure.
One of my favorite details of this pattern is the contrast at the pocket openings.
The back pleats are almost identical to the ones on the front.
This was my first time working with double gauze and I was surprised by how squirrely it was! I used my walking foot until I got to the zipper. I started with an invisible zip, but it created a horrifying amount of puckering. Then I added some interfacing to stabilize the area which helped the puckering, but the puffiness and loose weave of the fabric really gave the zipper a fight. I finally went with a lapped zipper.
Now here’s where I admit that lapped zippers confound me. After a lot of staring at the zipper and every lapped zipper tutorial on the internet, I cobbled together something that looks okayish on the outside.
The insides look less polished, though – especially where the inner waistband meets the zipper. I keep on meaning to perfect the Fashion Incubator method, which seems to be based on numbers and science, but I tend sew lapped zippers when it’s late at night and I’m bereft of my senses.
The good news is that it functions without problems and looks decent from the outside. I also attempted a floating lining (I think that’s what it’s called?) at the zipper opening. I serged the raw edges of the lining and tacked the seam allowance to itself so it doesn’t get caught in the zipper.
Speaking of difficult closures, this is how I get in and out of a coat! The coat tries to resist by strangling me, then I emerge from it, struggling but victorious.
Final reflections on this skirt? As it turns out, my wardrobe of longer, looser shirts and tunics doesn’t play so well with this skirt. This shirt I made during Me-Made-May is light enough to tuck in nicely, but I’m at a bit of a loss as to what else I can wear it with! Even though it was an impulse project, I assumed that a fitted black skirt would go with more of my wardrobe. If you wear fuller skirts, do you have any styling advice? Please share!
Now, back to that coat muslin.