Completed / Thrifted

Deuxieme Mathilde, premiere toile

The rainy weather broke yesterday and Nathan and I went on a gorgeous sunny walk in Discovery Park. I wore my second version of Tilly’s Mathilde blouse and we snapped some pictures. Even if we weren’t taking photos, the odds are good I would have been wearing it anyway!

crabandbee.com | Tilly & the Buttons Mathilde blouse

This time, I removed the back button placket. I cut my pieces on the fold but didn’t take into account I needed to make the fold the middle of the button placket instead of the folded edge – hence, a center-back seam.

crabandbee.com | Tilly & the Buttons Mathilde blouse

After my last Mathilde, I traced a smaller size through the shoulders and bust and lowered the bust dart by an inch. It looked perfect until I set the sleeves in – too tight through the shoulders! I should have seen that coming. I salvaged the sleeves by using a 1/4″ seam allowance for the top half of the sleeve. I will use this version of the bodice if/when I make a Mathilde tank top, however.

crabandbee.com | Tilly & the Buttons Mathilde blouse

My last modification was a bias-bound neckline as the facings would have shown through. The fabric is a pretty loose plain-weave linen that manages to be thick-ish and floaty at the same time.

crabandbee.com | Tilly & the Buttons Mathilde blouse

Given how much I wear this version, I could justify adding another Mathilde to my wardrobe. Who know that poufy sleeved blouses were so right for so many occasions?

There’s no time for that now, however. It’s time to get serious about my coat toile.

IMG_3993

(To answer the question that you’re most likely asking right now, yes, “someone” did confuse me for a doctor when I was wearing this, even though said someone happens to live with me and knows I don’t possess a medical degree. Hrmph.)

Anyway! My first impressions on the front are as follows:

  • I love the fit through the shoulders, which was my primary concern
  • The bust needs to be taken in on the princess seam
  • The waist could come in a bit on the side seams
  • I may want the hem to end mid-thigh rather than at the knee

IMG_3994

The back:

  • Pooling at ye olde swayback
  • Slight pulling on the upper back?
  • Potential excess ease in the upper back arm – although maybe it’s good to leave it there

IMG_3995

Side view:

  • Good sleeve length

I think that overall, this (Simplicity 1759) is a good coat pattern for me. It looks a bit dumpy right now but I think the changes to the bust ease, waist and lower back will go a long way (along with the shorter hem), as will not making my final coat in floral white and grey quilting cotton. I also may try View C instead – I’m a little underwhelmed by the tiny collar from View B. If you have any fit suggestions, I’d love to hear them!

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23 thoughts on “Deuxieme Mathilde, premiere toile

  1. love the blouse, that’s definitely the kind that would get loads of wear! sounds like you’ve identified the fit adjustments you need on the coat. i remember having that excess fabric on the back by the arm when i made my coat. i think i pinched out some excess, but you don’t want to take out much. your coat fabric being thick will smooth most of it out, as will adding shoulder pads. also, maybe the notch on the collar would look better if it were lower down, it kinda gets lost being so high up. ahh… now you’re making me want to make another coat for myself!

    • I do think the notch should go lower, although I’m also thinking that the larger collar would balance my shoulders a bit better. Speaking of shoulders, I was also thinking about forgoing shoulder pads. I wonder if there are any structural reasons to keep a thin on, though? Make another coat with me! :)

      • i am a fan of large collars, they’re definitely my favorite! i would recommend (from my very limited experience) including shoulder pads, they do provide a nice sharp structured shoulder line. generally i hate anything that adds too much beef to my shoulders, so i would suggest making your own. if you do it yourself you can control the thickness and avoid the football player look! plus you can customize them to fit your coat exactly. believe me, i’m tempted to do another! i’d like a shorter peacoat, and around these parts winter lasts until march or later, so i definitely have time!

  2. I love the blouse so much, puffy sleeves are my fave! The coat toile is looking good, although I agree that the bust seams could do with being taken in a bit. What kind of fabric will you be using?

    • Thanks, Rachel! I’m not quite sure yet what fabric I’ll choose. I was hoping to use a cotton velveteen from my stash but am feeling drawn towards some kind of wool. Also, the velveteen has some stretch to it, which sounds like it could add unnecessary complications!

  3. I love the blouse! The bias bound neck and button-less back work really well and in the white linen I can see this being a very versatile blouse.
    I agree with your coat adjustments as well and I like the smaller collar, especially in a plain fabric. What fabric have you used to make your toile? I’ve just cut out a pattern for a coat from Burdastyle and I haven’t made a fully lined coat before so thought it better to toile it first.

    • Thank you! I used a thrifted quilting cotton for my toile. I’m not really sure what the best fabric to use is! But I definitely think making one is worth the trouble when working with a new pattern.

  4. I quite like the seam up the back of the blouse! It’s lovely on you. The coat looks great for a first toile too! Are you wearing a sweater or something underneath it? I’m not sure on the collar – have you any pics of a RTW coat that has a similar collar detail? Maybe you could make the other collar but a little smaller…. The other suggestions from you and the other readers seem bang on!

  5. I think that first coat muslin is pretty good for a first go round. I agree with your fitting changes that you’ve outlined. I don’t know how much ease you want underneath for wearing other clothing, but you can probably take it in a bit and still be OK.

    • I’d like for it to accommodate thicker sweaters – I should mention that I’m wearing one in the photos. I shall go forth, adjust the muslin, and report back!

  6. That blouse is so “you!” Just perfect!

    Impressive muslin too! I’m in the middle of my coat right now, and I totally skipped the muslin phase, because mine is so loose-fitting. I’m looking forward to seeing more of your progress on this.

  7. Oh I just love your new Mathilde. It really does look fantastic on you It’s funny that you should have made a second because I’m contemplating my 3rd but wondering if it is excessive to have 3.

  8. This Mathilde is so cute. I actually think I like every version I’ve seen, which is pretty impressive!

    The coat looks like you have a good start. Getting a good fit at the shoulders in always the hardest for me and you already have that done!

  9. This blouse looks beautiful on you. I am glad you are finding occasions on which to wear sleeves ;) As for your coat muslin, I think you’ve covered all the bases (not that I am in a position to advise really!).Also I am sorry I didn’t get time to comment on your slippers post (I’m having a busy time right now), but I loved the combination of fabrics and they look very cosy for this time of year.

  10. Such a sweet blouse! You look gorgeous in it.
    I really love the coat pattern! Especially the little collar, but maybe I’m strange? It doesn’t look to me like you’ll have to make any major pattern adjustments to get the fit just ‘so’ – which is AWESOME!

    • You have impeccable taste! I’m totally going to realize the collar was cool in like, three years. I’m soo excited that the fit adjustments don’t look too major!

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